moldor’s Neighborhood

This morning while setting up a cross compilation environment for my new netbook I was greeted with this lovely error message:

# port install distcc
...
gcc-4.0: -E, -S, -save-temps and -M options are not allowed with multiple -arch flags
error: command 'gcc' failed with exit status 1
make: *** [include-server] Error 1

Error: Status 1 encountered during processing.

After some short searching I found this conversation on the distcc mailing list

...
This is a tricky one to solve.  I think the right fix is to make gcc support
-M options even when multiple -arch flags are specified.
(gcc would need to produce several .d files and then merge them into a
single one.)

> I simply removed -MD from the CFLAGS in the Makefile.

Yes, that's what I did too.  That seems like a fine work-around in the mean
time.
I would be happy to accept a patch to make distcc do this automatically (or
even just a patch to the INSTALL file to describe the work-around).
...

So it seems as if this bug is with GCC and not with The MacPorts Project nor distcc. At this point, I believe the best intermediate solution is to simply patch the Makefile as mentioned on the mailing list.

Here's a shell script I wrote that integrates patching along with installation while retaining manageability through macports:

#!/bin/sh

makefile=/opt/local/var/macports/sources/rsync.macports.org/release/ports/devel/distcc/work/distcc-3.1/Makefile

if test -e $makefile; then # user has a half completed installation
   break
else # user has not previously attempted installation
  port configure distcc
fi

# if the makefile still does not exist there's a problem
if ! test -e $makefile; then echo "The makefile does not exist. Are you sure distcc isn't already installed?" && exit 1; fi

# patch makefile and install
echo "\e[1m--->  Patching Makefile\e[0m"
sed -i.bak -e 's/\-MD\ \-W/\-W/g' $makefile && port install distcc

My very first laptop, the Asus EeePC 1000HE, arrived today but much to my dismay, was dead on arrival. The touchpad is completely unresponsive out of the box.

I connected a USB mouse and verified the touchpad hardware was recognized in device manager. I tried enabling/disabling the touchpad via the synaptec software and using the hotkeys on the keyboard but it still didn't work. I even copied the latest Gentoo Live cd to my flash drive and tested the laptop under X11 but it still wouldn't function. I saw the support hours on the bottom of the laptop were 24/7 and because I've never personally had a support contract before and also because it was 3am, I figured I'd give ASUS a quick call.

Unfortunately they lead me through the same patronizing steps I had already taken myself and told me I should just return the unit back to the retailer. What a bummer. I ultimately plan on doing this but I figured before I return it, I should at least clear my mind of any doubt and reseat the thin ribbon cable that runs from the back of the keyboard to the motherboard. (FIC cable?)

 Unfortunately this didn't solve the problem but at least you guys get a sweet teardown guide ;D

Setup

One thing that I always hate about disassembling laptops is the varying screw sizes which makes re-assembly an absolute chore/nightmare unless you happen to be gifted with the memory of a savant. It's nice to see that Asus standardized the screws into three separate types which were reused throughout most of the assembly. 

Screws

Step 1 & 2 are pretty straight forward; just take the battery out. If you can't do this, you should probably not go any further.

Step_01

Step_02

Step 3 reveals the conveniently placed hard drive and memory bay. The smaller screws are used here.

Step_03

Step 4 we get down to business. Remove 8 of the larger screws.

Step_04

Step 5. Remove 3 of the medium sized screws that are revealed underneath the battery bay.

Step_05

Step 6. It starts to get a little more tricky. Insert a flat object like the head of a flat eyeglasses screwdriver or a toothpick and push down the tabs that secure the keyboard in place. Once you pop a tab you'll need to lift the keyboard so it doesn't accidentally re-seat itself. Keep consistent upwards pressure as you release the 3 remaining tabs.

Step_06

Step 7. Gently lift and shake the keyboard loose of the tabs holding it in place on the side. Don't worry they'll pop right back in to place during re-assembly. Take special note of the delicate ribbon cable circled in the bottom of the picture. In the next step we'll remove it.
 

Step_07

Step 8. With the keyboard free of its plastic-tab bondage, you should now have clear access to the delicate ribbon cable below. I can't remember the name of the socket but it reminds me of a ZIF socket and functions similarly. The arrows on the sides of the sockets are the points where a small flathead screwdriver or toothpick can be wedged and gently pried. Take careful consideration here and make sure you give even treatment on either side of the socket as to not damage it. When the socket is fully open the cable will slide out with ease. Be careful not to damage the ribbon cable as you gently caress the ribbon cable to safety.

Step_08

Step 9. Oh boy, 6 more long screws.

Step_09

Step 9a. Located in the upper middle of the keyboard is the last remaining screw. If you want to keep your warranty intact (and I suggest you do, seeing as my sturdy unit was DOA (don't tell the ladies)) you can gently coerce the sticker not to rip. Fortunately it's not one of those foil stickers that tears easily. It's a plain 'ol garden variety vinyl sticker. Underneath you'll find a long screw. No pun intended.

Step_09a

Step 10.  Apply the same technique you used on step 8 to gently remove this cable. Notice the indicated bright blue plastic tab that is meant to help your on your journey to cable emancipation. Be gentle with these guys they're very sensitive.

This cable is tainted in broken'ness on my netbook. It may look perfectly normal but that's exactly what it wants you to think!

Step_10

Step 11. Hang in there, we're almost at the private parts. Gently raise the keyboard platform beginning on the right side and purposefully hinging on the left. There's a hidden cable underneath that connects to the lid switch. We don't want to break that. If it's sticking really bad, you somehow managed to forget Step 5.

Step_11

Step_11a

Step 12 is similar to the other ribbon cable steps. Locate where the lid switch cable connects to the laptop's motherboard and gently coerce it to safety. The side arrows indicate points at which you should use your removal device. The toothpick is probably a good idea here if you're uncomfortable with the screwdriver method. After you get done picking the fail out of your teeth, discard it and use a fresh toothpick to remove the cable.

Step_12

Finale. Behold, a beautiful high resolution image of the naked PCB that I know as the 1000HE's motherboard. I could have continued the disassembly but this level of deconstruction suited my needs. I encourage you to press forward and do awesome things.

Final thoughts: Modders will rejoice as there's quite a bit of room in the concave, under the motherboard which should allow ample room to install all sorts of retarded gadgets inside your 1000HE. One point of interest is a ribbon cable socket labeled "DEBUG" near the USB ports. I also noticed an unpopulated slot labeled "USIM" which may either have something to do with mobile telephony or human rights. You decide.
 

Finale

Here's another Ink wash from figure painting on Wednesdays..

Ghostly

Here's some stuff from life drawing, I got some stuff in the hallway too, so I'll post those later

I did some testing this morning with the GL2 and I'm really happy with the results. What a deal. Just a quick hand held shoot around Cal Arts at like 7am. I did a few tests but shot it mostly using a Merkury x2 wide angle lens and Tiffen UV filter in 24F mode. The vignette caused by the wide angle lens is bugging me, I think I can adjust the aperture to fix that but I'll figure that out later.

I'm going to avoid apologizing for lack of posts lately simply because I think you probably get the idea. Cal Arts is serious business.

I overheard a classmate saying you can either sleep or get your work done and frankly they are 100% correct in my eyes. Some of you super kids might be able to pull this off with ease but this school is kicking my ass and I'm happy for it.

Every assignment I feel Icould do 10x better if you had just a few more hours (and a functional right hand!) but there simply aren't enough hours in the day or marbles in the sanity jar.

So I present to you a sampling of assignments I was proud of:

Also, THE DEAL OF THE CENTURY!!! I love Canon cameras. I just do. I also love craigslist. Together they created this:

I finally found some time to fix my camera. Unfortunately It required a donor but one brave little soul answered the call of duty from ebay and gave his life. Let us take a moment of silence while we stare at his guts.

Our Hero

Okay, now for the show. What follows is my 2008 accepted Cal Arts portfolio, all artwork was created in about  4 months from September to December 2007.

IMG_4994

Thought this was kind of funny; ascii art stop sign in the first sector of the first partition on an iPod Nano.

# xxd /dev/sda1| head
0000000: 7b7b 7e7e 2020 2f2d 2d2d 2d2d 5c20 2020  {{~~  /-----\
0000010: 7b7b 7e7e 202f 2020 2020 2020 205c 2020  {{~~ /       \
0000020: 7b7b 7e7e 7c20 2020 2020 2020 2020 7c20  {{~~|         |
0000030: 7b7b 7e7e 7c20 5320 5420 4f20 5020 7c20  {{~~| S T O P |
0000040: 7b7b 7e7e 7c20 2020 2020 2020 2020 7c20  {{~~|         |
0000050: 7b7b 7e7e 205c 2020 2020 2020 202f 2020  {{~~ \       /
0000060: 7b7b 7e7e 2020 5c2d 2d2d 2d2d 2f20 2020  {{~~  \-----/
0000070: 436f 7079 7269 6768 7428 4329 2032 3030  Copyright(C) 200
0000080: 3120 4170 706c 6520 436f 6d70 7574 6572  1 Apple Computer
0000090: 2c20 496e 632e 2d2d 2d2d 2d2d 2d2d 2d2d  , Inc.----------

In order to patronize a tracker that uses SSL encrypted announces and self-signed certificates with rtorrent you need to add the servers' CA certificate to your trusted list. There are a few guides I found but none of which that directly address Gentoo linux so I'll go ahead and show you how.

You'll know there's a problem if you receive this error message when trying to download a torrent with an https announce url

* Tracker: [Peer certificate cannot be authenticated with known CA certificates]

The following shell script should be run as root. Don't forget to define the name of your tracker before you execute it

-----BEGIN cert.sh -----

#!/bin/sh
TRACKER=my-secure-tracker.tld

openssl s_client -connect $TRACKER:443 </dev/null 2>/dev/null | sed -n '/BEGIN CERTIFICATE/,/END CERTIFICATE/p' >> /etc/ssl/certs/$TRACKER.crt
openssl x509 -in /etc/ssl/certs/$TRACKER.crt -out /etc/ssl/certs/$TRACKER.der -outform DER
openssl x509 -in /etc/ssl/certs/$TRACKER.der -inform DER -out /etc/ssl/certs/$TRACKER.pem -outform PEM
c_rehash
unset TRACKER

-----END cert.sh -----

You can verify the results by using curl like so:

$ curl -I --capath /etc/ssl/certs https://my-secure-tracker.tld

HTTP/1.1 302 Found
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 05:45:45 GMT
Server: Apache
Location: /
Connection: close
Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1